Visiting “outer space”

Every once in a while I sleep in a so called “Capsule Hotel”. These places really impress me and from the view point of the cost/performance ratio they are definitely the cheapest place for a one night rest. Last time I checked out in Asahi-Plaza in Shinsaibashi/Osaka a foreign backpacking-couple was about to check in. They couldn’t speak Japanese and they were obviously surprised that the receptionists only spoke a few words English. After some awkward conversation the couple started to complain why they weren’t allowed to take their luggage to their room. I tried to explain them that this place is actually not a hotel and that there is no space inside the capsule much less in the locker. Capsule hotels aren’t designed for tourists and even less for a couple, because men and women live in separated facilities. Of course foreigners are welcome too, but the most frequent visitors actually are businessmen. However, as for me, living in Japan, it’s the best and most inexpensive place to rest while travelling. Before I leave my actual apartment I wrap just some basic things in my bag, but in fact you don’t need to bring along anything if you sleep in a capsule hotel. I will explain step by step how I usually spend my night in these special places and what services you can and cannot expect.

Entering the main hall you at first of course take off your shoes and lock them in a small shoe-locker right next to the reception. Afterwards you bring the key to one of the receptionists and in return you get another key with a certain number, which indicates your clothing-locker [i] and at the same time the position of your capsule. The price is about 20 Euro per night. It depends on the district.

In your locker you will find a cozy Yukata which at the same time serves as your bathrobe and your pajama. Similar to the famous Ryokan [ii] and other wellness resorts you can wear it during your whole stay in the “hotel”. If you don’t feel comfortable in it, you can also wear your own clothes. Don’t worry, nobody will be bothered if you do so. After slipping into my Yukata I’m ready for the Sento. The bathing area is located on an extra-level. There you will find everything you need to get relaxed and fresh. Two or three different types of whirlpools, a cold cell, a sauna, free towels, soap, shampoo, conditioner, disposable toothbrushes, shavers, massage-chairs, washing – and drying machines, sometimes also a pachinko- and manga area. Almost everything is included in the price. And the best thing about it, it’s open 24 hours. Capsule hotels will give you somehow the feeling of a home away from home. Therefore don’t expect any services from the employees. It’s just all about making yourself comfortable for the night.

When I finally manage to climb into my capsule and lock the front side I’m feeling like an astronaut. Maybe that’s the reason why I’m always sleeping like a satisfied baby in these futuristic framings. The check out times may be a little bit weird. So, if you don’t manage to get up in time you will be asked to pay about 2 Euros extra per hour. In any case it’s worth the good sleep and I feel ready for the next adventure.

Recommended Article:
One capsule for cosmic sleep

Clip:
Capsule Footage

Endnotes:
[i] Yes, it is only designed for clothing and not for luggage. However, if you travel with a small backpack you will manage to stuff it in the closet somehow.
[ii] Ryokan are traditional hotels built right next to one of more than 2000 Onsen spread over Japan. These hot springs are a unique gift from mother earth. If you don’t visit at least one Onsen throughout your stay in Japan you really missed the ultimate wellness-experience.

Religious rituals: Believe or tradition?

Japanese religion is an interesting field of study. Even if you are travelling to Japan for just one week, you will with the utmost probability encounter some religious activities. But random tourists certainly won’t guess that Japan isn’t a religious country at all. Before I share some personal experiences and observations with you, I want to start off with a very brief introduction about religion in Japan and will at the same time explain the last statement.

Shinto and Buddhism are the two major institutional religious structures in Japan (cf. Reader 1991: 6). Unlike other countries where a larger variety of major religions are practiced, Japan’s religious institutions get along with each other very well with multiple affiliations within (cf. ibid: 6). The reason is found in the culture’s history and collective commemoration. Japan was culturally influenced by many countries over the centuries, while establishing and maintaining its very own culture. Shinto and Buddhism are clearly inherited in Japanese culture and are therefore part of its tradition. People who seek for a soul-companion, active communities or help with their mental problems, won’t ask a Buddhist monk for advice. In fact there are many new religions flourishing in Japan. Some of them are off-springs from Buddhist doctrines; others are sects or “independent religions” with different functions and goals.

(A “How to Guide” for evoking the Shinto-spirits)

So obviously Japanese people in general exhibit high levels of religious behavior, which is usually more affiliated to their personal need rather than to any religious-believe (cf. ibid: 5). Praying to one god does not prevent the Japanese from praying to another, and just participating in one religion doesn’t suit Japanese culture (cf. ibid: 2). For example, blessings for children are given to them at the ages of three, five and seven at Shinto shrines, whereas traditional death ceremonies are held with Buddhism believe. Ian Reader already mentioned correctly: “The phrase ‘born Shinto, die Buddhist’ reflects a general social and religious reality for many Japanese (ibid: 6)”. Speaking of trends in my last post, one could also extend this phrase to: ‘born as Shinto, marry as Christian, die as Buddhist’.

I have visited many “sacred places” so far. It’s hard to miss them, especially in the ancient capitals Kyoto and Nara. I have recently been to Toudai-ji, the county’s biggest wooden building. This historical place and its surroundings are also famous for the free roaming deer, which are referred to as messengers of the Kami. Seeing pictures and reading articles about this place, I thought the area must be epic. Far from it! What seems holy about a place where masses are flocking to the temples, where you can’t distinguish between the sacred deer and the visitors in terms of behavior, where you have to pay in order to pray at the “special places”? This all seemed like a dream to me and at the same time keenly shallow, as if religion was a big business. Evidently this is the case in Nara, as far as I have experienced it.

(Toudai-ji crowded by visitors waiting for their chance to see the Great Buddha)

In my second week living in the Kansai region I experienced something similar at another famous landmark: Kiyomizu-dera. Although also cramped by masses I was impressed of the sheer beauty of this architectural masterpiece. However, before I saw this place through my own eyes I couldn’t believe that Buddhism is also using superstitious themes based on old traditions, but in truth it is quite common. For instance, on the top level of Kiyomizu there is a so called love-fortune-telling stone. One part of the description says: “If you walk safely from this stone to the other with your eyes closed, for once your wish will be granted soon. If you can’t, it will be long before your love is realized.” Some of the “rituals” just seem out of place here. Nonetheless many young people travel to these popular places too. They visit the shrines and do their prayers, with a majority not even knowing the purpose of their visit or to whom they pray. It’s all about tradition, and so it seems there is no deeper meaning left within religion these days.

(The famous love stone)

With a few exceptions I didn’t feel any spirituality neither inside nor outside of the religious institutions I’ve visited so far. Is anybody else aware of this? To whom are the Japanese worshipping? Maybe their prayers have turned to personal wishes, which don’t need any personified spirit or intercessor. Either way I look at it, these well-known landmarks are just empty places.

Info:
If you want to know more about Shinto- and/or Buddhism-rituals refer to the book cited in this post.

Literature:
Reader, Ian (1991): Religion in Contemporary Japan.

Cross dressing and gender switching in Japan

If you walk through the streets of Japan’s busy cities it’s hard to ignore the importance of fashion, especially for younger generations. No matter if you bump into girls or boys, almost each of them has its own “leisure dress-style”. They take their appearance very serious, even if they just go to the convenient store around the corner. I already mentioned the significance of Japanese standardized dress-codes in my first post. However, outside of school and occupation, the youths are able to express their individuality through brand clothing. This seems very facile; nonetheless fashion is a simple but effective means of communication.


The fashion market is huge and the possibilities for dressing-up are endless. Trends reach and leave Japan’s market and media fluently and have therefore an impact on the audience. So, if you are a fashion-designer, Japan’s metropolitan zones are the right place for you. Customers don’t just gaze at your creations they even buy all imaginable clothes and all sorts of weird gimmicks. This could be one reason why natural gender-constructions may vanish sooner or later. In this respect I’m going to draw my attention to these recent trends: Ojo-man (girly men) and Rekijo (history girl) – two forms of cross-dressing.

(A cross bar in Doyama-cho, the unofficial gay district in Osaka)

(A guy with heels inside a train-cabin [ii])

In Japanese society cross-dressing has its origins in Kabuki. Men dressing up as women on stage didn’t seem strange to me, but I could never imagine that, apart from acting, “gender-switching” is also becoming an industrial sector for private purposes. For example Japanese designers have invented male-bras and –leggings and apparently they are selling! The main costumers are so called herbivores (Ojo-man). In one article I’ve found, they are described as thoughtful, articulate and fashionably dressed young man, who seem to be metrosexuals without the testosterone (Parry 2009). Reading this I wonder why men without sexual preference or need want to be or at least look more feminine? Sociologist Sharon Kinsella gives a cue: “For many young men, cute fashion represents freedom and an escape from the pressure of social expectations and regulations (Kinsella 1995: 244).”

(Picture borrowed from CNN)

Japanese women on the other side can be seen as “leaders of modern culture”. Unmarried girls obtain greater freedom than young men and there are definite tendencies showing that they want to remain free women (cf.: Kinsella 1995: 244), who are striving to achieve their personal goals in a subtle patriarchal society. Speaking of patriarchy, has anybody of you for instance ever seen a female samurai? Even for entertainment purposes this would have been unimaginable some decades ago. This summer there has been a genuine history girl (Rekijo) boom spreading through the media.

(Picture borrowed from Japan Probe)

Pop culture researcher Ichiya Nakamura detects a relation between these two trends. While the “passive herbivores” seem to weaken the society, self-reliant women seek “super carnivorous males” [ii].

Literature:

Kinsella, Sharon (1995): Cuties in Japan. In: Lise Skov & Brian Moeran (Ed.): Women, Media and Consumption in Japan.

Parry, Richard Lloyd (2009): Girly men of Japan just want to have fun. Times - Online Edition.

Recommended Readings:

Japan’s gender roles

Cross-dressing a long show business tradition in Japan

Japan's herbivore men

Blurring the boundaries

Endnotes:

[i] Copyright belongs to O. Alavaz, edited by tobi-san

[ii] Found on Google-news